Pay It Forward

Okay, no new designs right now, sorry. I've been busy with other things lately, but will post more designs in 2008.

For now I will let you know that I have joined the Pay it Forward exchange. If you would like to recieve a hadnmade gift from me check out the details here. The first three people to leave me a comment (between both blogs) that they want to join the exchange will recieve a handmade gift sometime in the next year.

UPDATE:

my three PIF recipients are:
Tammy
Lisa
Faye

Crocheted Halloween Bath Set

So, I have been saying I would put some original crochet designs on this page for quite some time, and I'm finally doing it.

I wanted to give my nieces and nephew something cute for Halloween. Candy was out of the question, because they will end up with more than any child needs. So, I thought this little bath set would be fun.

The spider web washcloth is just alternating rings of white and black with surface slip stitches to complete the look (and add some extra texture for scrubbing!) The spider is two rings joined around a round cake of soap. The legs are made during the joining. I want to add some sort of facial detail, but I haven't decided what yet. I'm thinking of using hot-glue to attach some googly eyes.

The great thing about these is that the pattern is such a simple repeat that you just work until they are the size you want. No worries about gauge, or correct number of rounds!

To make the set you will need:

• cotton yarn (any kind), about 1oz (if using worsted weight) black and small amount of white (or another CC yarn)
• crochet hook sized appropriately for yarn
• scrap of waste yarn to mark beginning of rounds
• round cake of soap- any size (smaller is probably better for a child)
• yarn needle for hiding ends
• your own creativity to add eyes to the spider

Abbreviations used:

• ch- chain
• slst-slip stitch
• sc- single crochet
• dc- double crochet
• rnd- round

Spider Web Washcloth

1. [with white] ch2, sc 6x in 2nd chain from hook, changing to black, join to first sc with a slst, ch1
2. 2sc in each sc around, changing back to white, slst to first sc, ch1-12sc
3. [sc in 1sc, 2sc in next] around, join with slst to first sc, ch1-18sc
4. [sc in first 2sc, 2sc in next]around, changing to black, join with slst to first sc, ch1-24 sc
5. [sc in first 3 sc, 2sc in next] around, changing to white, join with slst to first sc, ch1-30sc

continue in this manner, increasing each round by 6 sc (the # of sc in the first round) making every third round black, and all other rounds white (or whatever CC you choose) until cloth is desired size. End with a black round. Cut and secure yarn, hide ends.

To add the spokes of the web:

hold black yarn to the back of the cloth, from the front insert crochet hook through the first ring of black sc. Pull yarn through cloth to the front and attach with slip knot to the hook. Insert hook into next row of sc and slst. continue to move out toward the edge of the cloth in this manner, keeping your line of slip stitches as straight as possible until you reach the end. Cut and secure yarn (I knotted the yarn tightly at the edges, as I thought they looked better extending over the edge a bit). Repeat this process around the cloth, as many times as it takes for your striped cloth to become a web.

Spider Soap Sack

note- You want to have your cake of soap handy while making this, as it will be used to judge the size to make your piece.

I expected that the young children I am making my Halloween bath sets for will not use these for a second season, so I completely sealed my soap sack, if you want to be able to re-use this you want to adapt the pattern to allow for changing the soap cake.

With Black chain 2

1. sc 6x in 2nd chain from hook. join with slst, ch1
2. 2sc in each sc around. Join with slst, ch1

Just as with the washcloth, but with no colour changes continue to work in rounds, increasing by 6 sc each rnd. Holding the fabric on top of your round soap, it is the right size when it just begins to extend beyond the edge of the soap all around. Cut and secure yarn, hide ends. (this is the bottom of the spider. For the top repeat this process, making sure that the same number of rounds (resulting in the same number of sc in final rnd) are worked, but DO NOT cut yarn- you will continue to work in rounds as follows:

next rnd: ch3, DC through the back loop in each sc around, join with slst to first sc

now holding your spider top over your soap, the DC round should cover 1/2 to 2/3 the thickness of the soap. If not repeat the previous round until it does (you want the fabric to stretch over the soap, but not too tightly). Once you have the sides the right length place soap in between the two pieces and begin to slip stitch them together. The outside edges should have the same number of stitches, so you will slip stitch 1sc to 1dc with no extras. When the first 1/3 of the round is joined [here is the best point to adjust pattern for a reusable soap sack-you could skip this portion of the joining and just lace up this section later] you will begin the legs as follows:

• slst into next st, chain 10, slst in 2nd chain from hook and each chain following until you are back at the base of the spider (if your legs are too short add more chains, just be sure to use the same number for all 8 legs)
• slst in next st
• slst in next st, chain 10-repeat previous method to return to spider base
• slst in next 2 sts, chain 10-repeat previous method to return to spider base
• slst in next st
• slst in next st, chain 10-repeat previous method to return to spider base

your first set of legs is done, continue to slst around to last 9sts, repeat above process. Cut and secure yarn. Hide ends, and use your creativity to embellish your spider's face.

Frankenstein's Monster Cloth

So, It's been a while since I've posted a new dishcloth pattern, but as promised here is something for halloween. My original idea was to go along with the science lab dishcloths, and make a Frankenstein's Lab, but it seemed way to intricate for too little effect. So, here's the monster complete with flat head, and surgical scars.

This cloth is actually smaller than most of my cloths. Recently I have had several people tell me they like a small cloth. If you want a larger one just add extra border stitches, and rows.

There is another halloween cloth, or two, on the way. I still have to get them test knitted. I may find the time to get one of them done tonight.

Frankenstein's Monster Cloth

materials:

Worsted weight cotton, about 1 ounce
US size 7 needles
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

directions:

Cast On 35 sts

rows 1-5) K all
row 6) K3, P6, K17, P6, K3
row 7) K11, P13, K11
row 8) K3, P11, K7, P11, K3
row 9) K11, P1, K2, P7, K2, P1, K11
row 10) K3, P8, K13, P8, K3
row 11) K11, P13, K11
row 12) K3, P8, K1, P2, K7, P2, K1, P8, K3
row 13) K14, P7, K14
row 14) K3, P11, K7, P11, K3
row 15) K13, P9, K13
row 16) K3, P9, K1, P9, K1, P9, K3
row 17) K11, P1, K11, P1, K11
row 18) K3, P7, K1, P13, K1, P7, K3
row 19) K9, P1, K15, P1, K9
row 20) K3, P5, K1, P3, (K1, P1) 6x, P2, K1, P5, K3
row 21) K8, P1, K2, P13, K2, P1, K8
row 22) K3, P5, K1, P3, (K1, P1) 6x, P2, K1, P5, K3
row 23)K8, P1, K17, P1, K8
row 24) K3, P4, K1, P19, K1, P4, K3
row 25) K6, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K16, P1, K6
row 26) K3, P3, K1, P17, K1, P3, K1, P3, K3
row 27) K6, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2, P7, K7, P1, K6
row 28) K3, P3. K1, P7, K2, P3, K2, P7, K1, P3, K3
row 29) K6, P1, K8, P1, K3, P1, K8, P1, K6
row 30) K3, P3, K1, P8, K1, P3, K1, P8, K1, P3, K3
row 31) K6, P1, K8, P1, K3, P1, K8, P1, K6
row 32) K3, P3, K1, P4, K3, P2, K1, P1, K1, P2, K3, P4, K1, P3, K3
row 33) K6, (P1, K3)2x, (P1, K1)3x, (P1, K3)2x, P1, K6
row 34) K3, P3, K1, (P2, K1)2x, (P1, K1)5x, (P2, K1)2x, P3, K3
row 35) K5, P1, K4, P1, K3, P1, K5, P1, K3, P1, K4, P1, K5
row 36) K3, P2, K1, P5, K3, P7, K3, P5, K1, P2, K3
row 36) K5, P1, K23, P1, K5
row 37) K3, P2, K1, P23, K1, P2, K3
row 38) K5, P1, K23, P1, K5
row 39) K3, P2, K1, P3, K1, P1, K1, P17, K1, P2, K3
row 40) K5, P1, K12, (P1, K1)2X, P6, K1, P1, K5
row 41) K3, P2, K1, P3, (K1, P1)2x, K5, P11, K1, P2, K3
row 42) K5, P1, K12, P1, K1, P1, K8, P1, K5
row 43) K3, P2, K1, P23, K1, P2, K3
row 44) K5, (P1, K3)6X, P1, K5
row 45) K3, P2, K2, (P1, K3)5x, P1, K2, P2, K3
row 46) K5, P25, K5
row 47) K3, P2, K25, P2, K3
row 48) K5, P25, K5
row 49) K3, P29, K3
rows 50-54) K all

Bind off, weave in ends.

Finally! Bunny Bath Puppet

Hi everyone. Sorry I was completely MIA for the month of August. I sort of over-booked myself, and decided the time I had for knitting was going to be devoted entirely to new types of projects. I knit my first pair of socks (I could do nothing else from now to the moment I die- I loved making socks!), and I'm now working on a shawl that I have been wanting to make as a gift for quite some time. You can read all about that stuff on Briley's Blog if you are interested.

So, I had mis-placed my knitting journals for quite some time, and they finally re-surfaced tonight! I have had requests for this guy, so I decided that I'd better get him posted right away. This is my bunny bath puppet. Some people have told me that he looks like a pig, and I got a few others that I don't recall right now. So, if you want him to be a pig, or ferret or what have you change the colour, and omit the bobble tail.

My bath puppet is definitely a bunny. I designed him to look like the white New Zealand rabbit I kept as a pet for many years. He was a wonderful friend to me, and I still miss him! He was much cuter than the puppet, but knitting does have it's limitations.

I've not gotten around to designing anything new since July, but plan to get to work on that soon. I have some Halloween stuff in mind, so hopefully there will be some fresh patterns to post soon. Bath puppets will be on hold for a bit, though.

So, here's the last bath puppet for a while:

Bunny Bath Puppet

materials:

Crystal Palace Cotton Chenille- white or colour of your choice- about 1/2 skein

US size 6 DPN's- set of 5

Black embroidery floss-small amount

waste yarn in contrast colour (mercerized cotton is best) small amount

yarn needle

Gauge: (not very important) approx 4 sts to the inch
.
Stitches/abbreviations used:

K- knit

STst- stockinette stitch (knit all stitches when in the round)

K2Tog- knit two stitches together

SSK- slip, slip, knit- individually slip two stitches knitwise, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches and knit together
.

st(s)- stitch(es)

WY- waste yarn

rnd- round
.
MB- make bobble- [K into front and back of stitch] 2x, [turn work and knit these four sts, turn and purl the 4 sts]2x, turn and knit the four stitches, pass the first 3 sts over the last stitch knitted.
.
Special Instructions:
When WY is used in pattern, instructions will read (for example) WY K3. The 3 sts should be knit in the WY, leaving a tail of a few inches at both ends, and then those stitches should be slid back onto the left needle and knit again with the main yarn. If the WY sts cross over 2 needles be careful to return them to the correct needle after knitting them with the main yarn. These instructions will not be repeated in the pattern directions.
.
Cotton Chenille is not an elastic yarn! Cast on VERY loosely. I cast on so loosely I thought my bottom edge would be a mess, and it was still too tight.
.
Directions:
.
with green Cast On 28 sts-remember to cast on LOOSELY-
divide the sts between 4 needles, 7 sts to each.
Being careful not to twist the sts, join in a ring .
Place a marker after the first stitch knit to signify the beginning of the round. This will be needle 1 , followed by needle 2, and so on.

Knit in STst for 1"

next rnd: K21, MB, k6

Knit in STst for 1.5"

next rnd: K1, WYK4, k4, WYK4, K to end

Knit in STst for 1.5"

Begin Decrease:

rnd 1) needles 1 & 3-SSK, K to end. needles 2 & 4) K to last 2sts, K2tog
.
rnds 2 & 3) K all
.
Repeat these 3 rnds until 2sts remain on each needle.

Cut yarn leaving a tail several inches long. Thread the tail through the 8 remaining sts and cinch the sts together. weave in tail.

Arms:

Work the following for each hole created by the waste yarn.

Remove WY and, using three needles (and a fourth to knit with) pick up 12 sts.

Knit in Stst for 1.5"

next rnd: K2tog around

cut yarn, leaving a tail of several inches. Thread tail through remaining sts, cinch closed, and weave in end

Ears:

MAKE 2

cast on 4 sts-leave a tail long enough to sew ears to puppet

Knitting back and fourth in rows knit in garter stitch (knit all sts) for 2"

.

next row: K1, K2tog, K1

next row:K all

next row: K2tog, cut yarn, pull through final st, and weave in end

Finishing:

sew ears to head, and embroider on eyes

Bookmarks/Contest/Tagged

This is the "Triple Chevron Bookmark" designed by Annette. It was the July Mid-month Bookmark for the Monthly Bookamrks group.

I made mine with a size 10 crochet cotton I hand dyed myself.

I recently became Moderator of the Bookmarks knit along group, and in order to find new designers for our group projects I will be running a contest. Starting August first I will be accepting entries of original knitted bookmark designs. The winner(s) will recieve one of my needle rolls. I will be capping the contest at 300 entries, but will increase the # of prizes each time the number of entries pass 100.

Contest Rules are now Posted! Visit brileyknitsmarket details.

Oh, and I have been tagged by Crochetaholic Deb

THE RULES: Each player of this game starts with the 6 weird things about yourself. People who get tagged need to write on their own blog their own 6 weird things as well as state this rule clearly. In the end, you need to choose 6 people to be tagged and list their names. Don't forget to leave a comment that says you are tagged in their comments and tell them to read your blog.

Wierd things about me:

1. I am a vegetarian of 17 years, and I currently work in a steak (chunks of cow, as I call it) house.
2. Sometimes I eat very little food all day so I can have ice cream at midnite with out feeling too guilty.
3. As a child I loved the smell of skunk (I don't mind it now, but don't like it either)
4. The stray cats in the neighborhood run from everyone but me. I think they either know how much I love cats, or they are amused at the fact that I am allergic to them.
5. I am a male knitter that was taught the basics by my brother.
6. I collect vintage ettiquette books.

Are those things wierd enough? I guess they will have to be.

Here are the people I have tagged:

1. Anita O
2. Tiffany
3. Lisa
4. Melanie
5. Kim
6. Jodi

Last time I was tagged on my yahoo blog I picked blogs at random.. This time they are all people I am familiar with, and whose blogs I enjoy reading.

Dragon Bath Puppet

This is the first bath puppet I knit in Crystal Palace Cotton Chenille. I love the yarn, it's so soft and fuzzy, and it was just screaming to be made into bath puppets!

The dragon is definitly my new favorite, and I was asked to post this pattern quickly, so I think he's already a favorite of some others, as well.

You'll have to excuse all the random dots in this post. Blogger is refusing to allow me to space this post the way I want to, so I put those in to hold open the blank rows.

.

Materials:

Crystal Palace Cotton Chenille:

Lime green (1 hank should make 2 puppets)

white (small amount)

black(small amount)

.

Scraps of a smooth waste yarn (mercerized cotton works well)

.

US6 DPNs (set of 5)

.

yarn needle

.

stitch marker

.

Gauge: (not very important) approx 4 sts to the inch

.

Stitches/abbreviations used:

K- knit

STst- stockinette stitch (knit all stitches when in the round)

K2Tog- knit two stitches together

SSK- slip, slip, knit- individually slip two stitches knitwise, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches and knit together

.

KFB- knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase by 1 st)

st(s)- stitch(es)

WY- waste yarn

rnd- round

.

MB- make bobble- [K into front and back of stitch] 2x, [turn work and knit these four sts, turn and purl the 4 sts]2x, turn and knit the four stitches, pass the first 3 sts over the last stich knitted.

.

3 needle Bind off- holding 2 needles with live stitches side by side use a 3rd needle to bind off as you normally would, except each time you would knit a stitch from the left needle you will knit the next stitch from both left needles together, and pass the previous stitch over, as in a 2 needle bind off.

Special Instructions:

When WY is used in pattern, instructions will read (for example) WY K3. The 3 sts should be knit in the WY, leaving a tail of a few inches at both ends, and then those stitches should be slid back onto the left needle and knit again with the main yarn. If the WY sts cross over 2 needles be careful to return them to the correct needle after knitting them with the main yarn. These instructions will not be repeated in the pattern directions.

.

Cotton Chenille is not an elastic yarn! Cast on VERY loosely. I cast on so loosely I thought my bottom edge would be a mess, and it was still too tight.

.

Directions:

.

with green Cast On 28 sts-remember to cast on LOOSELY-

divide the sts between 4 needles, 7 sts to each.

Being careful not to twist the sts, join in a ring .

Place a marker after the first stitch knit to signify the begining of the round. This will be needle 1 , followed by needle 2, and so on.

.

Knit in STst until piece measures 2.5 inches

.

next rnd) K16, WY K10, K to end -this rnd creates the space for the lower jaw

.

next 4 rnds) K all

.

next rnd) K2, WY K3, K4, WY K3, K to end -this round creates the spaces for the eyes

.

next 2 rnds) K all

.

.

Begin Decrease:

.

rnd 1) needles 1 & 3-SSK, K to end. needles 2 & 4) K to last 2sts, K2tog

.

rnds 2 & 3) K all

.

Repeat these 3 rnds until 16 sts remain (4 to each needle)

.

Repeat rnds 1 & 2 of decrease

.

nxt rnd) K1, MB, K2, MB, K to end

.

next 2 rnds) knit

.

Using a scrap of waste yarn and a blunt end needle, thread yarn through all the sts and remove needle. Be careful to remember where the round started (stitch 1 of needle 1). Turn work inside out.

Pick up the live stitches onto two needles, 6 sts to each. The sts from needles 1 & 2 should now be on one needle, and the sts from needles 3 & 4 on the other.
Bind off all sts using 3 needle bind off. Cut yarn, and secure.

.

Lower Jaw:

.

Remove waste yarn. Placing live sts on 4 needles, and picking up sts from the sides of the opening you want to have a total of 28sts on your needles, 7 on each. Needle 1 should be in the same place it was when you were working on the head (bottom right of mouth opening) Place a stitch marker to mark needle 1.

.

Knit in STst for 3/4"

.

Begin to decrease using the same 3 rnd decrease as above, until 12 sts remain.

.

Repeat procedure for inside 3 needle bind off.

.

eyes:

.

remove waste yarn from 1st eye space. Using 3 needles you want to have a total of 10 sts between live sts, and sts picked up from the sides of the opening. For the eyes the orientation of the needles (ie needle 1) does not matter.

.

With white: K 3 rnds

.

With Black: K2tog around

.

cut yarn, thread through 5 remaining sts, cinch tight, secure yarn, weave in ends

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Repeat in second eye space.

.

Spinal Ridges:

.

this piece is knit in rows seperately then sewn onto the back of the puppet.

.

with green Cast On 1 st

1) KFB

2) K all

3) KFB, K1

4) K all

5)KFB, K2

6) K all

7) K2tog, K2

8) K all

9) K2tog, K1

10) K all

repeat rows 3 through 10 until piece is desired length. It should start between the eyes and reach the base of the mitt. When it is long enough knit the last 2 sts together. Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to sew piece onto puppet, pull yarn through last stitch, center piece along the top of the puppet and sew in place.

.

All ends should be woven in and secure. A forked tounge may also be added. See the directions in the silly snake pattern.

Little Chick Bath Puppet

Materials:

Worsted weight cotton yarn:

1 oz white or cream

small amount yellow

black embroidery floss (I used size 10 crochet cotton)

scraps of a smooth waste yarn in a contrasting colour

US size 7 DPN's (set of 5)

blunt end needle (for weaving in ends, and embroidery)

Gauge: approx 5sts to the inch, but not terribly important

Stitches/abbreviations used:

K- knit

STst- stockinette stitch (knit all stitches when in the round)

K2Tog- knit two stitches together

SSK- slip, slip, knit- individually slip two stitches knitwise, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches and knit together

st(s)- stitch(es)

WY- waste yarn

rnd- round

3 needle Bind off- holding 2 needles with live stitches side by side use a 3rd needle to bind off as you normally would, except each time you would knit a stitch from the left needle you will knit the next stitch from both left needles together, and pass the previous stitch over, as in a 2 needle bind off.

Special Instructions: When WY is used in pattern, instructions will read (for example) WY K3. The 3 sts should be knit in the WY, leaving a tail of a few inches at both ends, and then those stitches should be slid back onto the left needle and knit again with the main yarn. If the WY sts cross over 2 needles be careful to return them to the correct needle after knitting them with the main yarn. These instructions will not be repeated in the pattern directions.

Directions:

Cast on 36 sts

divide between 4 needles, 9 sts to each

being careful not to twist, join stitches, placing a marker on the first needle (this will be needle 1, followed by needle 2, and so on)

knit in STst until piece measures 3" in length

next rnd) K5, WY K8, K to end (this creates the space for the lower beak)

Knit 5 rnds in STst

next rnd) K3, WY K12, K to end (this creates the space for the Upper beak)

Knit 8 rnds in STst

Begin Decrease:

rnd 1) needles 1 & 3: SSK, K to end needles 2 & 4: K to last 2sts, K2tog

rnd 2) K all

Repeat these 2 rnds until 16 sts remain (4 to each needle) ending with rnd two.

Using a scrap of waste yarn and a blunt end needle, thread yarn through all the sts and remove needle. Be careful to remember where the round started (stitch 1 of needle 1). Turn work inside out.

Pick up the live stitches onto two needles, 8sts to each. The sts from needles 1 & 2 should now be on one needle, and the sts from needles 3 & 4 on the other.

Bind off all sts using 3 needle bind off. Cut yarn, and secure.

Lower beak:

(using 4 needles)

Remove WY, slide bottom right 4 sts onto needle 1, slide bottom left 4 sts onto needle 2, slide top 8 sts onto needle 3

With needle 4 and yellow yarn:

pick up 2 sts from right side of opening and K across needle 1 (needle 1 6sts)

K across needle 2 and pick up 2 sts from left side of opening (needle 2 6sts)

K across needle 3 (needle 3 8sts)

K 4rnds

rnd 6) K4, SSK, K2tog, K8

rnd 7) K all

rnd 8) K3, SSK, K2tog, K to end

rnd 9) K all

rnd 10) K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, SSK, k4, K2tog

rnd 11) K all

rnd 12) K1, SSK, K2tog, K1, SSK, k2, K2tog

rnd 13) K all

rnd 14) [SSK, K2tog]2x

cut yarn, thread through remaining 4 sts, cinch tight and secure.

Top Beak:

remove WY

needle1: 6 sts from top left to top center

needle 2: next 6 sts

needle 3: 12 bottom sts

rnd 1) pick up 2 sts on left side of opening, K to end of needle 1 (needle 1 8sts) kto end of needle 2 and pick up 2 sts on right side of opening (needle 2 8sts) k to end (needle 3 still 12 sts)

rnds 2,3,4) K all

rnd 5 and 7) needle1- K to last 2 sts, K2tog needle2-K2tog, K to end needle3- K all

rnd 6 and 8) K all

rnd 9, 11, 13) needle1- K to last 2sts, SSK needle2-K2tog, K to end needle3-SSK, K to last 2 sts, K2tog

rnd 10, 12, 14) K all

cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and cinch tight. Secure yarn, weave in all ends.

embroider on eyes.

Introducing Bath Puppets!

I was looking for some gifts to knit for a friends children, and had noticed that all kids seem to go through a stage where they HATE to bathe. So, bath puppets are born. These puppets are made of 100% cotton, and can go right into the tub to make bath time fun time! They are sized to be big enough to fit most kids, but will probably be a bit too small for adult hands.

FROGGY BATH PUPPET

This little guy was the second bath puppet I knit up. So far he's my favorite, and he works up quick!

Materials:

worsted weight cotton yarn: 1oz bright green, scraps of black and white

several scraps of waste yarn (preferably something smooth like mercerized cotton) in a contrasting colour

US7 DPN's, set of five

yarn needle

Gauge: approx 5sts to the inch, but not terribly important

Stitches/abbreviations used:

K- knit

STst- stockinette stitch (knit all stitches when in the round)

K2Tog- knit two stitches together

SSK- slip, slip, knit- individually slip two stitches knitwise, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches and knit together

st(s)- stitch(es)

WY- waste yarn

rnd- round

Special Instructions: When WY is used in pattern, instructions will read (for example) WY K3. The 3 sts should be knit in the WY, leaving a tail of a few inches at both ends, and then those stitches should be slid back onto the left needle and knit again with the main yarn. If the WY sts cross over 2 needles be careful to return them to the correct needle after knitting them with the main yarn. These instructions will not be repeated in the pattern directions.

Directions:

With Green Cast on 36sts

Divide the sts between 4 needles, 9 sts to each, and (being careful not to twist the sts) join. insert a stitch marker into the center of the sts on the first needle. The needle with the stitch marker will be needle 1, and following the direction of your knitting the next will be needle 2, and so on.

knit in STst until you have a tube 3 inches long

K3, WY K12, K to end of rnd- this round creates the space for the lower jaw

Knit in Stst for another 1.25 inches

K20, WY K4, K6, WY K4, K2- this rnd creates the 2 eye spaces

K 3 rounds

*Begin Decrease*

Rnd 1) needle 1 and 3: SSK, K to end needle 2 and 4: K to last 2sts, K2tog

Rnd 2) K around

*repeat the 2 decrease rounds until 12 sts remain, end with Rnd 2 of decrease*

Cut yarn , using a yarn needle, thread the tail through the remaining sts and pull tight, secure and hide yarn end.

To make lower jaw:

Remove waste yarn, place live sts onto four needles, and pick up sts on the sides of the opening to total 28 sts. there should be 7 sts on each needle. Needle1 should be the bottom right needle (place a marker on this needle to keep track)

K in STst for 1.25 inches.

Begin decrease, using same directions as above.

When 8 sts remain finish as above.

To make eyes:

for the eyes there is no need to keep track of needle numbers, and since the sts will not divide evenly amongst the needles I had 4 sts on one, and 5 sts on the other two. They need not be oriented in any special way. Just choose a starting point and go from there.

starting with white yarn

Remove waste yarn, place live sts on 3 needles, and pick up sts from sides of the opening to total 14 sts.

rnds 1 and 2) K all

rnd 3) switch to black, K all

rnd 4) K2tog around

cut yarn, using yarn needle thread yarn through remaining sts, pull tight, secure yarn, and hide end.

Repeat for second eye.

Silly Snake Bath Puppet

The snake is very similar in construction to the frog. I have omitted the 3 dimensional eyes in favor of quicker embroidered eyes here, but the 3D eyes can be easily used by following the directions above. Or some buttons could be sewn on, if the recipient is not proned to putting things in his/her mouth. Although I never choked on anything as a child, I remember feeling that nothing had been adequately understood until it had been tasted and chewed. So, I never add buttons to anything intended for a child.

Materials:

US7 DPN's, set of five

US3 DPN's or circular needle for I-cord

1 ball worsted weight cotton in variegated greens

small amount of Crochet Cotton size 3 in red

small amount of black embroidery floss (I used size 10 cotton)

scrap of smooth waste yarn in contrasting colour

Abbreviations/ Special instructions/ gauge: Same as for Froggy and:

KFB- knit into the front and back of the stitch (increases by 1st)

Directions:

with US7's and green Cast on 36 sts

Divide the sts between 4 needles, 9 sts to each, and (being careful not to twist the sts) join. insert a stitch marker into the center of the sts on the first needle. The needle with the stitch marker will be needle 1, and following the direction of your knitting the next will be needle 2, and so on.

Knit in STst for 6 inches

K3, WY K12, K to end of rnd- this round creates the space for the lower jaw

Knit in Stst for another 1.25 inches

*Begin Decrease*

Rnd 1) needle 1 and 3: SSK, K to end needle 2 and 4: K to last 2sts, K2tog

Rnd 2) K around

*repeat the 2 decrease rounds until 8 sts remain, end with Rnd 2 of decrease*

Cut yarn , using a yarn needle, thread the tail through the remaining sts and pull tight, secure and hide yarn end.

For lower jaw:

Remove waste yarn, place live sts onto four needles, and pick up sts on the sides of the opening to total 28 sts. there should be 7 sts on each needle.

Needle1 should be the bottom right needle (place a marker on this needle to keep track)

K in STst for 1.25 inches.

Begin decrease, using same directions as above.

When 8 sts remain finish as above.

For tongue:

Using red Crochet cotton and size 3 DPN's

cast on 3 sts leaving a long tail that will be used to sew tongue into mouth

Knit I cord for 2.5 inches

Now working in rows:

K1, KFB, K1

**(K2, turn) 3x *you should be ignoring the 2 unused sts right now*

K2 tog

cut yarn, pull through and secure (I used a knot here) **

with the remaining 2 live sts re-attach red and repeat the steps between the ** symbols.

using the tail from the cast on and a yarn needle, sew tongue into center of mouth, making sure the yarn end is secure.

Eyes should be embroidered on as you wish.

Chain of Hearts Bookmark

I designed this bookmark, along with a few others when I had a little unanticipated extra time in my day. This sample is knit on US size 1 needles with size 10 cotton. It's about 1.25" wide. I made the sample in the picture shorter than I intended because I decided half way through it would look good sewn onto a piece of 1" white ribbon (which I have to buy).

If I knit this again I will use US size 2 needles, and size 3 cotton.

CHAIN OF HEARTS BOOKMARK

materials:

small amount of crochet cotton or fingering wt yarn

needles sized appropriate to yarn

special stitches:

K2tog- knit 2 sts together

SSK- slip next 2 stitches purlwise (individually), insert left needle into front of both sts and knit together

YO- yarn over

pattern:

*NOTE* unless otherwise stated, all odd rows are K2, P9, K2

Cast on 13 sts

1&2) K across

4) K5, K2tog, YO, K6

6) K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, ssk, K4

8) K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3

*

10) K2, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K2

12) K2, K2tog, YO, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K2

14) K2, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, YO, SSK, K2

16) K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3

*

Repeat rows 10-17 until bookmark is desired length.

finishing:

Knit 3 rows, bind off, weave in ends.

Daquiri Dishcloth

!Thank you Linda, for pointing out my error in row 1. It has been corrected. That line should end with K3, not K1.

Well, I had been working on a dishcloth pattern designed to use up all the partial balls leftover from other dishcloths. I have a design in mind that I really like, but the test knitting has gone horribly. It will actually be a very quick and easy knit when the pattern is finished, but I keep changing one stitch here and there, in a very OCD fashion. I finally realized I had to put it to the side for a while, and work on something else. The scrap dishcloth is coming...eventually. In the mean time here's something cool for the summer!
I wanted a border that is more fun than garter stitch or seed stitch for this cloth. This border is included in the instructions. If you want a plain border remove the first and last 5 sts of each row, and rows 1-4, and60-63, and substitute your own border.

DAIQUIRI DISHCLOTH

materials:

US size 7 needles

1 ball worsted weight cotton

abbreviations:

S1-slip one stitch purlwise

Cast on 40sts

1) K1, [P4, K2]to last st, K3

2) S1, P2, [K4, P2] to last st, K1

3) S1, K2, P2, K1, P4, [K2, P4]4times, K1, P2, K3

4) S1, P2, K2, P2, [K2, P4]4times, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1

5) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

6) S1, K2, P34, K3

7) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

8) S1, K2, P10, K15, P9, K3

9) S1, K2, P2, K30 P2, K3

10) S1, P2, K2, P10, K11, P9, K2, P2, K1

11) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

12) S1, P2, K2, P14, K3, P13, K2, P2, K1

13) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

14) S1, K2, P16, K3, P15, K3

15) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

16) S1, K2, P16, K3, P15, K3

17) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

18) S1, P2, K2, P14, K3, P13, K2, P2, K1

19) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

20) S1, P2, K2, P14, K3, P13, K2, P2, K1

21) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

22) S1, K2, P15, K5, P14, K3

23) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

24) S1, K2, P14, K7, P13, K3

25) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

26) S1, P2, K2, P11, K9, P10, K2, P2, K1

27) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

28) S1, P2, K2, P10, K11, P9, K2, P2, K1

29) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

30) S1, K2, P11, K13, P10, K3

31) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

32) S1, K2, P10, K15, P9, K3

33) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

34) S1, P2, K2, P8, K15, P9, K3

35) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

36 ) S1, P2, K2, P8, K15, P7, K2, P2, K1

37) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

38) S1, K2, P11, K13, P10, K3

39) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

40) S1, K2, P11, K13, P10, K3

41) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

42) S1, P2, K2, P10, K11, P9, K2, P2, K1

43) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

44) S1, P2, K2, P10, K11, P9, K2, P2, K1

45) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

46) S1, K2, P11, K13, P10, K3

47) S1, P2, K34, P2, K1

48) S1, K2, P10, K15, P9, K3

49) S1, K2, P2, K9, P2, K8, P1, K10, P2, K3

50) S1, P2, K2, P10, K1, P9, K2, P8, K2, P2, K1

51) S1, K2, P2, K7, P2, K10, P1, K10, P2, K3

52) S1, P2, K2, P10, K1, P11, K2, P6, K2, P2, K1

53) S1, P2, K7, P2, K7, P11, K7, P2, K1

54) S1, K2, P8, K9, P9, K2, P6, K3

55) S1, P2, K18, P7, K9, P2, K1

56) S1, K2, P10, K5, P19, K3

57) S1, K2, P2, K18, P3, K9, P2, K3

58)S1, P2, K2, P10, K1, P19, K2, P2, K1

59) S1, K2, P2, K30, P2, K3

60) S1, P2, K2, P1, [K4, P2] 4times, K4, P1, K2, P2, K1

61) S1, P2, K2, P2, K2, [P4, K2] 4times, P2, K2, P2, K1

62) S1, K2, P2, K2, P2, [K4, P2] 4times, K2, P2, K3

Bind off. Weave in ends

Flying Insect Dishcloth

I designed this dishcloth to use for an exchange with the Knitdishcloths group. The theme of the exchange was "bugs and critters"

This was the first picture dishcloth I designed, and it is knit side to side, not top to bottom. I did that to make it fit in the space I wanted to use, but a pleasant side effect is that the stitches really pop this way.


Flying Insect Dishcloth

materials:
1 ball worsted cotton
US size 7 needles

CO 42 sts

1. K all
2. K all
3. K all
4. K all
5. K all
6. K all
7. K3, P36, K3
8. K all
9. K3, P36, K3
10. K8, P2, K32
11. K3, P11, K4, P13, K4, P4, K3
12. K7, P4, K13, P5, K13
13. K3, P10, K6, P11, K5, P4, K3
14. K7, P6, K9, P7, K13
15. K3, P11, K7, P7, K7, P4, K3
16. K8, P6, K7, P6, K15
17. K3, P12, K7, P5, K7, P5, K3
18. K8, P8, K3, P8, K15
19. K3, P13, K7, P3, K7, P6, K3
20. K10, P7, K1, P7, K17
21. K3, P15, K6, P1, K6, P8, K3
22. K12, P5, K1, P5, K19
23. K3, P17, K4, P1, K4, P10, K3
24. K5, P2, K7, P2, K3, P2, K21
25. K3, P19, K1, P11, K1, P2, K1, P1, K3
26. K8, P1, K6, P3, K5, P3, K4, P3, K9
27. K3, P5, K5, P2, K5, P3, K5, P3, K2, P6, K3
28. K8, P4, K1, P7, K1, P15, K6
29. K3, P2, K31, P3, K3
30. K7, P31, K4
31. K3, P2, K31, P3, K3
32. K8, P4, K1, P7, K1, P15, K6
33. K3, P5, K5, P2, K5, P3, K5, P3, K2, P6, K3
34. K8, P1, K6, P3, K5, P3, K4, P4, K8
35. K3, P19, K1, P11, K1, P2, K1, P1, K3
36. K5, P2, K7, P2, K3, P2, K21
37. K3, P17, K4, P1, K4, P10, K3
38. K12, P5, K1, P5, K19
39. K3, P15, K6, P1, K6, P8, K3
40. K10, P7, K1, P7, K17
41. K3, P13, K7, P3, K7, P6, K3
42. K8, P8, K3, P8, K15
43. K3, P12, K7, P5, K7, P5, K3
44. K8, P6, K7, P6, K15
45. K3, P11, K7, P7, K7, P4, K3
46. K7, P6, K9, P7, K13
47. K3, P10, K6, P11, K5, P4, K3
48. K7, P4, K13, P5, K13
49. K3, P11, K4, P13, K4, P4, K3
50. K8, P2, K32
51. K3, P36, K3
52. K all
53. K3, P36, K3
54. K all
55. K all
56. K all
57. K all
58. K all
59. K all

Bind off, and weave in ends.

Flowering Vine Bookmark

This bookmark uses slipped stitches and easy cables, together with eyelets to create a picture . I've been wanting to incorporate some cables into my designs, and thought it would be best to start small. I'm glad I did because I tried several methods to do the same thing before I decided on the one I liked best. I'm sure the next time I design something with cables it will be much easier, but I am pleased with the way this turned out.

Flowering Vine Bookmark

materials:

small amout of size 10 crochet cotton

US size 1 needles

small cable needle (CN) or extra size 1 DPN

special stitches used:

SSK- slip, slip, knit
K2tog- knit 2 stitches together
YO-yarn over
S1- slip 1 stitch purlwise
T2R- twist 2 right- slip one stitch on CN, hold in back of your work, on right side knit one stitch from left needle, then knit stitch from CN, on wrong side purl next stitch from left needle, then purl stitch from CN
T2L- twist 2 left- slip one stitch onto CN, hold in front of your work, on right side knit next stitch from left needle, then knit stitch from CN, on wrong side purl next stitch from left needle, then purl stitch from CN.

Cast on 19 stitches

1. K ALL
2. K ALL
3. K9, S1, K9
4. K2, P15, K2
5. K9, S1, K9
6. K2, P15, K2
7. K7, T2R, S1, T2L, K7
8. K2, P4, T2L, P3, T2R, P4, K2
9. K5, T2R, K2, S1, K2, T2L, K5
10. K2, P15, K2
11. K5, S1, K3, S1, K3, S1, K5
12. K2, P15, K2
13. K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K1, S1, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3
14. K2, P15, K2
15. K4, K2tog, YO, K3, S1, K2, K2tog, YO, K5

Repeat rows 4-15 until bookmark is about one inch shorter than you want it to be. The bookmark in the photo has a total of 6 repeats (so 5 more times) and is about 6" long.
When bookmark is almost as long as you would like it to be, move on to these rows for the top of the vine, and the finishing.

1. K9, S1, K9
2. K2, P15, K2
3. K9, S1, K9
4. K2, P15, K2
5. K4, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, SSK, YO, SSK, YO, K5
6. K2, P15, K2
7. K7, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K7
8. K2, P15, K2
9. K6, K2tog, YO, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K6
10. K2, P15, K2
11. K5, K2tog, YO, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K5
12. K2, P15, K2
13. K8, K2yog, YO, K9
14. K2, P15, K2
15. K ALL
16. K2, P15, K2
17. K ALL
18. K ALL
19. K ALL
Bind off, weave in ends.

Science Lab Dishcloth

This is the first dishcloth I designed for Tiffany's science teacher gift. It really reminds me of old horror movies. The ones when it wasn't all about gore. I think I may ended doing some mad scientist cloths. Perhaps closer to Halloween.

Science Lab dishcloth
2oz worsted cotton
US size 7 needles
CO 41 sts
1. K all
2. K all
3. K all
4. K all
5. K3, P35, K3
6. K5, P2, K27, P2, K5
7. K3, P2, K2, P27, K2, P2, K3
8. K5, P2, K27, P2, K5
9. K3, P2, K2, P27, K2, P2, K3
10. K5, P2, K27, P2, K5
11. K3, P2, K31, P2, K3
12. K5, P35, K5
13. K3, P3, K1, P2, K4, P2, K1, P3, K6, P2, K1, P7, K1, P2, K3
14. K17, P4, K20
15. K3, P3, K1, P3, K2, P3, K1, P3, K6, P2, K1, P1, K1, P3, K1, P1, K1, P2, K3
16. K6, P3, K1, P3, K2, P8, K18
17. K3, P3, K1, P3, K2, P3, K1, P2, K8, P1, K4, P1, K4, P2, K3
18. K6, P3, K1, P3, K2, P8, K7, P1, K10
19. K3, P3, K1, P2, K3, P3, K1, P3, K6, P2, K9, P2, K3
20. K6, P3, K1, P3, K4, P4, K8, P3, K9
21. K3, P3, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P5, K2, P5, K3, P1, K3, P3, K3
22. K6, P3, K1, P3, K5, P2, K21
23. K3, P3, K10, P5, K2, P5, K1, P1, K1, P3, K1, P3, K3
24. K6,P1,K3, P1, K1, P1, K5, P2, K21
25. K3, P3, K10, P5, K2, P5, K1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P4, K3
26. K8, P1, K3, P1, K5, P2, K5, P10, K6
27. K3, P4, K8, P5, K1, P2, K1, P3, K1, P10, K3
28. K14, P1, K1, P1, K4, P1, K5, P6, K8
29. K3, P6, K4, P6, K1, P5, K1, P12, K3
30. K14, P1, K1, P1, K4, P1, K7, P2, K10
31. K3, P7, K2, P7, K1, P3, K1, P2, K1, P11, K3
32. K14, P1, K1, P2, K3, P1, K7, P2, K10
33. K3, P7, K2, P7, K1, P4, K2, P12, K3
34. K22, P1, K6, P2, K10
35. K3, P7, K2, P5, K1, P20, K3
36. K24, P1, K3, P1, K12
37. K3, P10, K1, P1, K1, P5, K20
38. K26, P1, K14
39. K3, P10, K1, P1, K1, P5, K1, P16, K3
40. K24, P1, K3, P1, K12
41. K3, P9, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1, P1, K2, P4, K1, P3, K1, P2, K5
42. K4, P2, K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, P2, K2, P1, K7, P1, K1, P1, K13
43. K3, P11, K1, P6, K1, P1, K2, P4, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K3
44. K4, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P1, K23
45. K3, P18, K1, P1, K2, P4, K2, P1, K2, P2, K5
46. K all
47. K3, P18, K1, P16, K3
48. K all
49. K3, P18, K20
50. K all
51. K3, P35, K3
52. K all
53. K3, P35, K3
54. K all
55. K all
56. K all
57. K all
58. K all
Bind off, weave in ends

Erlenmeyer Flask Dishcloth

This dishcloth is the second I designed for a fellow member of several of my knitting groups. Tiffany was looking for a dishcloth to make for a science teacher.

ERLENMEYER FLASK WITH EFFERVESCING LIQUID
1 ball worsted cotton
US size 7 needles
CO 41 sts
1. K all
2. K all
3. K all
4. K all
5. K3, P35, K3
6. K all
7. K3, P3, K29, P3, K3
8. K all
9. K3, P3, K29, P3, K3
10. K8, P25, K8
11. K3, P3, K29, P3, K3
12. K8, P25, K8
13. K3, P3, K29, P3, K3
14. K9, P23, K9
15. K3, P4, K27, P4, K3
16. K10, P21, K10
17. K3, P5, K25, P5, K3
18. K11, P19, K11
19. K3, P6, K23, P6, K3
20. K12, P17, K12
21. K3, P7, K10, P3, K8, P7, K3
22. K13, P4, K5, P6, K13
23. K3, P8, K7, P7, K5, P8, K3
24. K16, P7, K18
25. K3, P9, K2, P4, K7, P2, K2, P9, K3
26. K17, P5, K19
27. K3, P10, K2, P5, K3, P3, K2, P10, K3
28. K all
29. K3, P11, K2, P9, K2, P11, K3
30. K all
31. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
32. K all
33. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
34. K all
35. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
36. K all
37. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
38. K all
39. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
40. K all
41. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
42. K all
43. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
44. K all
45. K3, P12, K2, P7, K2, P12, K3
46. K all
47. K3, P12, K11, P12, K3
48. K all
49. K3, P12, K11, P12, K3
50. K all
51. K3, P35, K3
52. K19, P3, K19
53. K3, P15, K5, P15, K3
54. K17, P7, K17
55. K3, P14, K7, P14, K3
56. K17, P7, K17
57. K3, P14, K7, P14, K3
58. K18, P5, K18
59. K3, P16, K3, P16, K3
60. K1O, P3, K28
61. K3, P24, K5, P6, K3
62. K8, P7, K26
63. K3, P23, K7, P5, K3
64. K8, P7, K26
65. K all
66. K all
67. K all
68. K all
Bind off. Weave in ends.

Skulls and Aliens

This is my one of my first attempts at multi-stranded colour knitting. I drew up the graph for the skull and alien to practice with, and I really like the way they turned out.


Here's the graph I used.








This graph is one I designed for my brother, Gerry. He loves mosaic knitting, and wanted a skull design. I tried to do something in more detail, but quickly realized it would have to be an afghan to fit all the stitches. Unfortunately the lines of the graoh dont show up here, but I think it can still be easily read.



Again, for my brother Gerry, I made this felted bag using the graph intended for potholders in The Happy Hooker by Debbie Stroller.

These potholders went along with the bag. The skull is from the same graph, and I made the alien to fit into the same size piece. I can't locate the graph right now, but will try to post it later.

Diamond Lace Bookmark

This was my very first original pattern. I designed it to use for an exchange with the Monthlybookmars group. Just recently the pattern was used as one of the group KALs.

The photo above is actually as scarf I made with the exact same pattern. I just increased the borders by 2 stitches on each side, and continued on with the pattern repeats

Diamond Lace Bookmark
Materials:
size 10 crochet thread
US size 1 needles

CO 21 sts
rows 1-4: K across
row 5 (and all odd rows): K2, P17, K2
row 6: K9, K2tog, YO, K10
row 8: K8, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K8
row 10: K7, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K7
row 12: K6, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K6
row 14: K5, K2tog, YO, K7, YO, SSK, K5
row 16: K4, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K4
row 18: K3, K2tog, YO, K11, YO, SSK, K3
row 20: K2, K2tog, YO, K13, YO, SSK, K2
row 22: k4, YO, SSK, K9, K2tog, YO, K4
row 24: K5, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K5
row 26: K6, YO, SSK, K5, K2tog, YO, K6
row 28: K7, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K7
row 30: K8, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K8
row 32: K9, YO, sl1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K9
row 34: K9, K2tog, YO, K10
row 36: K8, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K8
row 38: K7, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K7
row 40: K6, K2tog. YO, K5, YO, SSK, K6
row 42: K8, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K8
row 44: K9, YO, sl1, K2tog, PSSO, YO, K9
rows 46-85: repeat rows 6-45
rows 86-115: repeat rows 6-35
rows 116-119: K all
Bind off, weave in ends.